Chapman Italy 2009

Vatican and Bernini

2009-01-28T14:33:00.000-08:00

Raphael Rooms:
Room of Constantine 1524 ca (for Pope Leo X)
Room of Heliodorus (aka throne room of the Pope) 1511-13 (For Pope Julius II and Leo X)
Room of the Segnatura (aka the Library) 1508-11 (for pope Julius II)
Room of the Fire in the Borgo 1514-17 (For pope Leo X)

Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel Ceiling 1508-12 (for pope Julius II)
Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel Last Judgment 1536-41 (for Pope Paul III)

Bernini's Statues:
Bernini born in 1598 died in 1680.

Pluto and Proserpina - 1621-22
Apollo and Daphne - 1622-25
David – 1623-4

Ancient Rome Timeline

2009-01-28T14:24:00.000-08:00

ROME FOUNDED IN 753 BY ROMULUS

PANTHEON 27-25 BC AND 118-128AD

THEATER OF MARCELLUS 50caBC to 13-11BC

PORTICO OF OCTAVIA 22caBC

BASILICA AEMILIA 179BC

CURIA 45-44BC AND THEN 29BC

ARCH OF SEPTIMIUS SEVERUS 203AD

LAPIS NIGER 6TH CENTURY BC

ROSTRA (BOW-RAMS)

TEMPLE OF SATURN 498 BC – REBUILT IN 42 BC AND 283 AD

TEMPLE OF VESPASIAN AND TITUS 1ST CENTURY AD

TEMPLE OF CONCORDIA 367 BC

TABULARIM 80 BC

BASILICA IULIA 54 BC

TEMPLE OF CASTOR AND POLLUX 484 BC REBUILT IN 6TH CENTURY AD

TEMPLE OF DIVUS IULIUS 44-45 BC

TEMPLE OF VESTA 191 AD

HOUSE OF THE VESTALS

REGIA 7TH CENTURY BC

TEMPLE OF ANTONINUS AND FAUSTINA

TEMPLE OF ROMULUS 306-312 AD

BASILICA OF MAXENTIUM 306-312 AD

ARCH OF TITUS 71 AD

TEMPLE OF VENUS AND ROMA 135 AD

Thanks

2009-01-28T11:43:00.000-08:00

Well, we are almost all back at Chapman and I would like to just take a moment to thank Eric Chimenti for keeping up this wonderful blog and thus keeping all parents informed on all that was going on during our visit.
I would also like to thank all the students for being such wonderful troopers and following me everywhere even when it meant walking for miles... :)
It has been an amazing experience and i sincerely hope that you will all remember it for the rest of your lives (even those nights that, according to your facebook pages, were a blur to you).

un abbraccio

january 24-26 story and pictures

2009-01-26T21:09:00.000-08:00

Sleeping, souvenir shopping, laundry, Internet, packing, final day exploring were all activities that filled the last full day of our trip. It also rained hard this afternoon, but the rainbow after was beautiful. Four members of the class have already left for Paris. The rest of us had our final dinner together tonight. It was a delicious traditional Italian meal with homemade ravioli – stuffed with Ricotta cheese, homemade pasta – with Italian bacon, mixed cooked vegetable platter with Italian artichokes, a fresh green salad, and Tiramisu. Liliana brought everyone a rose shaped chocolate, and some fresh wild strawberries to try. It began to rain again as we finished dinner and most of us went back to the hotel in a downpour.

The majority of us left the hotel at 7:45 am for the airport to begin the trek home. We were supposed to go through terminal 5. This is not the terminal the Roman cab drivers are familiar with for Americans. The cab rides were supposed to be 40 Euros, some were some weren’t. Some students got dropped at terminal C and had to take a shuttle to terminal 5. Some of the groups were charged more than 40 Euros. Some of the cabbies argued with their passengers over the drop off point and the charge. The flight from Rome to Philadelphia was north-west and took us over the Italian Alps and what may have been Greenland, Newfoundland, and probably Canada. The first leg was 10 hours, the second leg was 6 due to stronger than normal prevailing westerly winds. Everyone was anxious to be home and surrounded by the familiar, Mexican food was high on the priority list.

January 23 story and pictures

2009-01-24T03:26:00.001-08:00

Today was the final day of instruction. The students are split into two groups since the Borghese Museum will not allow tours over 15 to go thru at one time. The first fifteen leave at 9:30ish for the hour trek by foot, No. 8 tram, foot, No. 63 bus, and then foot again. The appointment is from 11 to 1 pm. The second group met Professor Chimenti at the cat sanctuary at 2:00 pm so they can be taken to meet up with Dr. Leopardi in the beautiful park grounds that surround the Borghese. On the way we pass under what was a Roman aqueduct, that then became an exterior wall of Medieval Rome, that is now a stunning piece of architecture for us to walk thru as we head into the park on our way to the museum. There are no pictures allowed inside. This museum goes so far as to make all visitors check their bags and cameras at the door, not even the Vatican was that strict. Please look up the museum or works by Caravaggio, Raphael, Bernini, Titian, and Botticelli on line to see what we saw. At the end of this museum visit the students turn in their notebooks to be checked, they will be returned tomorrow so that they can begin working on their final.

January 22 story and pictures

2009-01-23T03:07:00.000-08:00

The sun is streaming in through those hotel windows this morning. It is a welcome sight after many overcast and rainy days. Today we walked to a few more historic sites to help bracket the time period we are interested in. We started in Piazza Novona and looked at the spectacular Four Rivers Fountain by Bernini. We then went and looked at some stunning paintings by Caravaggio, followed the Pantheon, it is truly an amazing building. It is very easy to see why it inspired so many church domes of the 15th and 16th century. Raphael's tomb is located within it too. We then walked to the Trevi Fountain, where everyone was taking group and subgroup pictures. I only managed to get one group photo on my camera; if the students send me theirs I’ll upload them too. We ended at the Spanish Steps and stopped at about 1pm with the rest of the day to ourselves. Some sought out free wi-fi so that they could upload yesterday’s update and then celebrated with Gelato. Yesterday was a long day and tomorrow promises to be also, so it was nice to have a break between, especially on such a beautiful day.

january 21 story and pictures

2009-01-22T05:36:00.000-08:00

I’d like to take this opportunity to thank Dr. Leopardi for doing an outstanding job setting up this course, flexing the schedule (sometimes daily and hourly) to accommodate the vagaries of weather, the visit sites, and the students. It all seems so seamless, but some of us can see and appreciate the mounds of logistic and academic preparation that has occurred.

Today some of us left for a large open-air local market at 9:45 just up the street from our hotel, these are becoming more rare in Rome. This is where the local neighborhood shops for everything from groceries to clothes. At 11 am the class gathered in the hotel lobby, walked to the tram, took the tram, and then the bus to just outside Vatican City. We then walked briskly in the rain out of Italy and into the Papal State to enter the Vatican Museum. There we begin to see how the ancient Greek and Roman art, architecture, and ideals were co-opted in the fifteenth and sixteenth century. As we went through a very small portion of the collection heading toward Saint Peter’s Cathedral we were seeing what had led up to some of the most famous pieces by Raphael and Michelangelo. Dr. Leopardi did a magnificent job weaving all the art, political, and religious threads from the ancient past and fifteenth and sixteenth century together so that as we entered the Pope’s Library with it’s Raphael’s and the Sistine Chapel with its Michelangelo’s the course tapestry became more and more complete. All of this was accomplished in rooms full of competing tour guides, and the ebb and flow of masses of humanity. My words cannot describe what it is like to walk into room after room of truly legendary art. To round a corner and suddenly be confronted by Raphael’s School of Athens filling the wall or to emerge into the Sistine Chapel as it’s grandeur and size surrounds and engulfs you are indescribable. There are no pictures allowed in the latter and the former would not have justice done to it by amateur photographers. Please look them up on line if you are not familiar with them. We finish the day in St. Peter’s Cathedral concentrating on Michelangelo’s Pieta, and Bernini’s many artistic contributions.

january 20 story and pictures

2009-01-22T05:29:00.000-08:00

Today we left at 10:30 am for the little known and rarely visited church of Santa Cecilia to see the frecoes by Cavallini and the archeological dig under the church of a 2nd century AD Roman house. We then went to see the beautiful Villa Farnesina, a 16th century house built by Sienese banker – Agostino Chigi – who was Pope Julius II’s banker. We saw frescoes by Raphael and Sodoma. We then broke for lunch and regrouped at 3pm to see the church of Santa Maria Sophra Minerva where we saw the sculpture Risen Christ by Michelangelo and the Caraffa Chapel with paintings by Lippi. We ended with a visit to the princely palace of the Doria-Pamphilij family where we saw paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, and Velasquez. The students were also treated to some excellent Gelato. Later, some of us also enjoyed the Roman cookies, Brutti ma Buoni (ugly but good) and they were.

january 19 story and pictures

2009-01-20T12:00:00.001-08:00

After a breakfast at the hotel, we start at 9 am for the tram which takes us downtown. We then begin by walking through the Jewish ghetto towards what was the Roman Forum. Then we descend into the Forum, that chronologically and geographically leads us to the Coliseum. It is much warmer here and we are all enjoying the “balmy” mid-forty degree weather that was punctuated by intermittent light rain. We walked for about 3 hours looking and learning, then broke for lunch and regrouped at 4 pm to visit some local artisans using the same printing methods as those in the Renaissance. It was the advent of printing and moveable type that fed both the Renaissance and the Reformation. The ability to quickly share art and ideas influenced artists and thinkers. Seeing this done, much like the restoration labs in Florence, will help us appreciate some of what we will see in the days to come.

January 18 story and pictures

2009-01-20T11:48:00.000-08:00

The trip to Rome began innocently enough. We gathered in the Venice hotel breakfast room at 9 am. With everyone assembled we moved out into the cold damp rainy morning to catch our boat ride back up the Grand Canal to the train station. When we arrived and wrangled all of the luggage up the stairs to enter the station we awaited our EuroStar to Rome. Earlier in the week we had switched departure times in order to upgrade to the newer EuroStar so that we would have “greater” luggage capacity, which we sorely needed. As soon as our train had been assigned a platform we went and forming our suitcase brigades promptly filled two cars luggage capacity. Then we situated ourselves and enjoyed a relaxing ride. After having lived in Florence and Venice, two very different cities, it is nice once again to see a bit of the Italian countryside. We saw some on our bus ride to Siena. As the train whooshes along we see factories and farmland, apartment buildings and churches, a bit of Roman Aqueduct, an old hilltop fortress wall with newer buildings grafted on. The train between Venice and Rome makes five stops, as always we had designated people who would get up and watch over the luggage area (that is by the doors) to make sure our luggage didn’t walk away with someone else. The bathroom situation on an Italian EuroStar is also interesting. Not every car has a lavatory, our car did, but they were not working, instead one in need had to travel up to the car after ours to wait to use the facilities. The working facilities can be very dubious as far as cleanliness. Then there are the entrepreneurs who board the train prior to departure or between stops and entice you to buy some trinket or food item for your journey.
The students read, slept, ate, watched movies, and listened to iPods as we traveled. We arrived at the Rome station on time and rested. Then the fun began. Our large group with our large luggage wound our way through the busy Rome train terminal heading for the cabs lined up just outside the station. Our group had to be broken up into 5-7 cabs, most could hold up to 4 people but only 2 peoples luggage. So we sent some cabs with several people and little luggage and other cabs with little people and much luggage. The cabbies charge by the mile, the people, and the bags. Cab rides averaged 20-30 euro per car. We have just spent a week in a city with NO motorized traffic and have just arrived in a city with massive amounts of traffic. To say most of us were a little overwhelmed would be an understatement. To say that many of us feared for our lives would be only a little exaggeration. My favorite moment, echoed by others as we huddled together and compared “notes”, was the moment when the cabbie (apparently completely in his vehicle code rights) decided to take the middle path on a very busy street using the lane that the Rome trolley cars run on in between the other normal lanes of traffic. I’m sure within the week we are here we will think nothing of it, but it was a bit much today. This evening we dined on pasta with peas, ham, and white sauce, followed by roast pork with oven baked potatoes, and finished with what looked and tasted like flan. The group pictures are of each dinner table (left side) cheerful to be in Rome and (right side) outward expressions of inner feelings during the various cab rides. Ciao.

when in rome...

2009-01-19T09:36:00.001-08:00

We arrived in rome yesterday afternoon.. after a formula one taxi ride, we all arrived all in one piece at the hotel. Today we spent the morning immersing ourselves in history by visiting the colosseum and the roman forums. This afternoon we learned print making by visiting the stamperia del tevere. somehow, though, i think that the cat sanctuary in the sacred area of largo argentina was a bigger hit with students... and to think that where ceasar was murdered now roam hundreds of cats...
our wonderful Eric will try and update the blog soon with new pictures, but we have no internet access in hotel so he might not be able to be as regular as he usually been... if only we had the bbm capabilities of our technologically evolved students, who were apparently getting ready last night for this morning historical tour by practicing greco-roman wrestling.... again...
it has become a theme of the trip... next time i will try and get pictures of this wonderful nightly event that Eric and I so look forward to ...

But sarcasm aside:), i want to thank all the boys here, Mike, John, Blake, Ryan and Daniel for being so wonderful at helping everyone with their luggage on and off the train from venice to rome. their packing skills on the luggage rack are surpassed only by their greco-roman wrestling skills. Parents, you have raised lovely gentlemen!
Tomorrow, if weather holds, we will visit vatican museum and then go off and see obama's inauguration at an anglosaxon pub by the troubling name of the drinking ship (or something like that).... i will have to keep a sharp eye on all the ducklings...

January 17 story and pictures

2009-01-17T22:20:00.000-08:00

Our last full day in Venice and it is beautiful. The sun was out and it was warmer. The students wake up when they want and everyone does what they desire. Some did laundry, some napped, some took gondola rides, and others shopped. I have to visit San Marco’s square one last time and walk along the water. There were more people out and. I failed to mention yesterday that we tried the cookies of Venice – Zeleti. They are dry and hard with a subtle sweetness; they were originally made for the fishermen who would be out in their boats all day. (The cookie of Florence was Biscotti, for those of you keeping track.) We had our final Venice dinner together that featured lasagna, fried calamari, boiled spinach, and ice crème for dessert. (note: a few members of our group elected to go see a Vivaldi concert, he was a Venitian after all!)

January 16 story and pictures

2009-01-16T02:16:00.001-08:00

The morning dawned foggy and cool, but no rain, and sun was promised in the forecast. Today the students took the mid-term written exam at 10:30 in the hotels breakfast room. The remainder of today and tomorrow are “free” days to explore and enjoy the part of northern Italy we are in. Some other things that pictures cannot capture are the smells and feel of the city we are in. First, many many, too many, Italians smoke. The smell of cigarettes and fresh backed goods or divine Italian food mingles as you walk. Then there is the bustle of the local eateries. If you find a good one, odds are you will not be alone and it is a very very cozy experience. As the day went on the fog rolled back in. It was nice to smell the clouds as we walked about. Sunday we take the train to Rome.

January 14: notes for Mid-term

2009-01-15T23:00:00.001-08:00

St. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari 13th – 14th century with 15th and 16th century additions
Oil painting of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary by Titian, 1516-18.
Pesaro Altarpiece by Titian 1519-26

Scuola Grande di San Rocco executed by Tintoretto in 1564-67; 1575-81; 1582-87.

January 12: notes for Mid-Term

2009-01-15T22:58:00.001-08:00

Doge’s Palace – 12th to 16th century. Palace was completed by 1559. Stairwell of the Giants executed in 1567 by Sansovino. The Main Gateway, also called Porta della Carta was executed by Giovanni and Bartolomeo Bon in 1438-42.

On the Exterior of Palace, close to church, Porphyry sculpture of the Four Tetrarchs, 4th century AD
In Doge’s palace, Fresco by Titian of St. Christopher, 1523-4.
Oil Canvas in the Sala del Maggior Consiglio showing the Coronation of the Virgin in Paradise by Tintoretto 1588-94.
Reorganization of the Square of San Marco by Sansovino in 16th century.

January 10 : notes for Mid-term

2009-01-15T22:57:00.000-08:00

Bargello’s Museum – Works and dates as per notes in class. Michelangelo’s Bacchus 1496-98.

Medici tombs in the New Sacristy by Michelangelo: 1520-34
Tombs of Lorenzo de Medici, Duke of Urbino and of Giuliano de Medici, Duke of Nemours
Allegories of Day and Night and of Dawn and Dusk.

Visit to Siena: notes for Mid Term

2009-01-15T22:56:00.000-08:00

Visit to Siena

Palazzo Pubblico:
Frescos of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, 1338-40
Fresco of the Enthroned Madonna also known as the Maesta by Simone Martini 1315.

Cathedral 12th to 14th century by partial design of Nicola Pisano:
Pulpit by Nicola Pisano 1265
Piccolomini Library, commissioned by Pius III to commemorate Pius II in 1502. It was painted by Pinturicchio with the possible presence of Raphael. At the center of the romm there is a roman copy of the greek statue group of the three graces.
Museum of the Opera del Duomo:
Duccio’s Maestá 1308-11.

January 15 story and pictures

2009-01-15T22:50:00.000-08:00

It was overcast, cool, and rainy as we headed out today on a pilgrimage of sorts to five different churches: Santa Maria della Salute by longhena, started in 1629, San Zaccaria with Enthroned Madonna by Giovanni Bellini, 1505, San Giorgio dei Greci, 16th century, and Santa Maria dei Miracoli, 16th century.
We began near our hotel and wound our way to the Realto Bridge, the largest bridge in Venice. The churches varied widely in architectural style and artistic decoration, it was interesting to see the development of both before, during, and after the period we are studying. Many of these churches are still functioning and so the boys had to remove their hats upon entering and we had to be respectful of the worshipers who were there. Several of them were cold enough, again, to see our breath in. After that we visited a local glass artisan who worked in Morano glass – famous in this area – who was willing to make each of us a custom piece while we watched. We broke for lunch after that and enjoyed the local fare. I had a delicious bean soup, so good after walking around in the cold rain all morning. The rest of the afternoon was free, with the students reconvening at 6 pm for the lecture portion of today. We then went to dinner as a group at Ae Oche which is just down the canal our hotel. The walk down and back with the lights of the buildings on the Isle of Giudecca reflecting on the water was beautiful.

january 14 story and pictures

2009-01-14T11:00:00.000-08:00

Today dawned cool and rainy. We left the hotel at 10:30 am to visit the Churches of St. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari and Scuola Grande di San Rocco (no pictures allowed). While there we were looking at the works of Titian and Tintoretto. Both buildings seemed colder inside then outside, everyone’s hands and feet were cold, taking notes was difficult again, and you could see your breath even when inside. We broke for lunch around 12:30 and every student was responsible for visiting the Guggenheim Museum in the afternoon. The students were to select three pieces of art from this Modern collection and look to see how these works may have been influenced by the ones we have been studying. January is not the peek tourist season in Venice and when it is cold and raining the city can be beautifully quiet.

January 13 story and pictures

2009-01-13T23:14:00.001-08:00

Today began with an overcast sky and cold temperatures, but the sun came out by 10 am and it “warmed” up especially if you were in the sun. Venice is an interesting contrast to Florence. While the latter was built more like a fort with massive buildings, Venice appears to almost float with buildings coming right down to the water. The streets and walkways are narrower and there is no motorized traffic. There are quite a few dogs and almost no grass, so the traveler really has to watch where they walk. The students were split into two groups again today for our visit to the Academia as they could not accommodate all of us at one time. One group was at 9 am the second group went at 3 pm. For those who were not “in” class there was more of an opportunity to explore the city. While there we studied Belleni’s St. Job Alterpiece, Giorgione’s La Nude, Lorenzo Lotto’s Portrait of a young man, Titian’s Pietá, Tintoretto’s St. Mark freeing the slave, Veronese’s Feast in the house of Levi, Giorgione’s The Tempest and The Old Woman (with time), Gentile Belleni’s Procession in Plaza San Marco, Carpaccio’s Miracle of the Cross at the Realto Bridge and The Cycle of St. Orsola, and finally Titian’s Presentation of the Virgin to the Temple. Two of the best things about studying these works in person are that you get to see them actual size and, in the case of some of them, we have walked in San Marco’s Square and we have crossed the Realto Bridge.

January 12 story and pictures

2009-01-12T22:41:00.000-08:00

Our first full day in Venice began, as usual, with breakfast at the hotel. (When you open your room door you can smell the baked goods.) The wireless seems to be better here, which should make updating the blog along with all other Internet communication easier. At 9:15 am we took a winding walk down narrow streets and over canal bridges to the Doge’s Palace in San Marco’s square. It was very chilly in and outside of the palace making note taking and concentration difficult. Imagine standing in a damp refrigerator for 3 hours, this would be similar to what we experienced. However, the interior rooms where the Doges governed the city of Venice, the armory with its collection of weapons, and the prisons were (insert superlative here). In the city’s we are visiting we are comparing how they governed and how they employed art and architecture in within those administrative structures. We then went to the Basilica of St. Mark next door and reveled in the beauty of this Gothic structure. Neither venue allowed interior photography, but if you visit your local library or search on line you can find images of what we saw and can’t personally document. Our break for lunch was around 1 pm and class reconvened at 5 pm in the hotel where it was warm and concentration was better.

January 11 story and pictures

2009-01-11T22:49:00.001-08:00

VENICE
The hotel in Florence was abuzz with activity this morning prior to the 10:42 parade of taxis that took us to the train station. Our Eurostar train was on time but boarding was very slow due to the luggage. The boys on the trip were tasked with forming suitcase brigades to quickly pass bags up from the terminal into the train cars. The trains appear to be set up primarily for the local Italian commuter and not the traveler. What this means is that the luggage areas are completely inadequate for student groups like ours. The suitcases are just too big and don’t fit well anywhere. Therefore we are forced to leave our luggage in the walkways and near the exits. The latter location is a great temptation for thieves, so at every stop we had designated members of the luggage brigade who watched to make sure it didn’t go anywhere.
We arrived safely after an almost 3 hour train ride that included 5 stops, but went through some very beautiful eastern Italian countryside. We then hired a ferry to take us around the Grand Canal to our hotel where we unpacked and had a chance to relax and explore. Venice is interesting after Florence. There are of course no cars on the streets and no Vespas and it is much quieter here. At 7:30 we had dinner together at Ristorante San Trovaso, were we dined on spaghetti with clams (not a favorite of many students), then breaded chicken, radicchio, spinach, French fries, and our choice of three different desserts (fresh fruit, gelato covered pastry, or tiramisu). Of course all restaurants are notified prior to our arrival as to those who have special dietary needs.

January 10 story and pictures

2009-01-11T22:45:00.001-08:00

Today the sun was out and the weather was a bit warmer. It is our final full day in Florence and we began by walking to the Borgello to see Donatello’s David. We were particularly interested in the differences between how Donatello portrayed David versus how Michelangelo did 60 years later. Following that we looked at Baccus, an early work of Michelangelo, to note the similarities and stylistic cues evident later in his version David. Then we walked over to the Medici Tombs and looked at Michelangelo’s work there. Neither venue allowed photography inside. Tonight we enjoyed dinner at Ristorante Antico Barile where we celebrated John, Daniel, and Nikkis birthdays. We dined on spaghetti with bread, roasted chicken, salad, and what looked and tasted like French fries, followed by gelato. As the students exited the restaurant spontaneous street dancing in the style of Beyoncé broke out.

january 9 story and pictures

2009-01-09T13:57:00.000-08:00

Today we left at 8:30 to catch the bus to Siena. After a brisk walk across town we arrived at the bus terminal and boarded, many students elected to nap for the 1.5 hours it takes to drive south into the Tuscan hills. Once there we went to the Palazzo Pubblico and cathedral Santa Maria dell’ Assunta. We looked at some magnificent frescos by Lorenzetti, the Duccio alterpiece (no pictures allowed) and the Piccolomini Library, some of which predate the renaissance yet nicely illustrate its origins. After that we scaled the façade of the cathedral and overlooked the Siena valley. At lunchtime we had a chance to sample the Sienese food and some of us tried a city specific cookie that is filled with almond paste and covered with powdered sugar. Mmmmmm. We took a double deck bus home and had the thrill of seeing just how close the Italians get to one another in rush hour; bikes, Vespas, pedestrians, cars, and trucks all millimeters from each other zigging and zagging on narrow city streets with parked cars and double parked vehicles. Everyone seems to have the right of way at the same time or expects all the other people to yield.

January 8 story and pictures

2009-01-08T11:46:00.001-08:00

The morning dawned cool and clear. After breakfast at the hotel we walked to the Uffizi and spent about 3 hours looking and learning about the art/artists/politics/philosophy leading up to the 15th and 16th century as well as a bit of what came immediately after. We studied works by Cimabue, Giotto, Buoninsegna, Fabiano, Bottocelli, Di Vinci, Michelangelo, Titian, and Caravagio. No picture taking is allowed.
We then broke for lunch and had some free time to further explore the beautiful city of Florence.
The late afternoon session was at the Galleria dell’ Accademia (which is right around the corner from our hotel) where we continued our look at great Renaissance art and unpacking what was going on around it. We studied works by Michelangelo, including his mythic and iconographic David. Again, no picture taking is allowed. What we learned yesterday at the restoration houses certainly enhanced our understanding of all that we saw today.
Tomorrow we travel to Siena.

January 7 story and pictures

2009-01-07T13:22:00.001-08:00

This morning we must break up into two groups as we are going to the Florence restoration labs located within the Medici Fortezza De Basso. It is overcast and about forty degrees when the first group leaves at 8:30 for the walk to the labs. The second group left at 10 am in sprinkles that turned into a steady cold rain. Again, no pictures were allowed in the Italian State run restoration labs, but the students had a once in a lifetime experience seeing things that most human beings will never see – priceless artwork at your fingertips. The details we were able to see on Giotto’s crucifix were amazing among many other pieces being worked on all over the lab. Both groups have time to break for lunch and shop or rest before the next appointment.
The afternoon took the students in another direction across town, thankfully the rain had abated by then, to a private restorer who specializes in ivory and bone. The students were able to have an intimate hands-on experience with the tools, techniques, and hear her professional philosophy.
The day ends with a crisp walk to dinner through the glowing shop windows of Florence.

January 6 story and pictures

2009-01-07T06:47:00.001-08:00

The day begins early, 2:30 am-ish. Disco Karaoke has ended and some students have returned in good spirits, loud conversations are held in the hall, there is shushing and thumping. Greco Roman wrestling has erupted in one of the rooms. The students are encouraged to go to bed and sleep. Apologies are offered.
We begin at the Palazzo Medici Ricardi and take turns seeing their small but gorgeous Chapel of the Magi. No photography allowed. A viewing of the just restored Madonna del Cardellino by Raphael follows this, also with no photography allowed. Stunning. Conveniently there is a book store with things for sale to help you remember the art.
Break for lunch.
Walk back to the Piazza della Signoria to see the annual Procession of the Magi parade. It was spectacular with cannons, drums, flags, and period costumes.

January 5 story and pictures

2009-01-07T06:37:00.002-08:00

Our student ranks are now at the full 25 and we begin with a light breakfast overlooking the city, and then gather our coats, notebooks, wireless receivers and headsets to begin our walking tour. It is cold, damp, and 35 degrees. In the shade of the beautiful historic buildings it feels much colder. Pens won’t write. Hands and fingers after a few moments work under protest. We start in the Piazza della Signoria in front of the Palazzo Vecchio. We then move to the Orsan Michele and follow that up with Santa Maria Del Fiore and the Baptistery. San Lorenzo and the Old Sacristy follow this. It is warmer now, we break for lunch. Across the Arno River we head to Santa Maria del Carmino and the Brancacci Chapel. Santa Croce is last to see the frescoes of Giotto where we end for the day having walked over much of the city.
We take a break and all meet up again for dinner followed by gelato. In addition we celebrate two birthdays and find there are more to be celebrated in our group.

January 6 notes

2009-01-07T06:37:00.001-08:00

January 6, 2009.

Palazzo Medici built in the 15th century by Michelozzo, pupil of Brunelleschi.

Magi Chapel: Painted by Benozzo Gozzoli. 1459-62

Caspar: portrait of Lorenzo de’ Medici?

Balthazar: portrait of John VIII Paleologus, Emperor of the East

Melchior: portrait of Sigismond of Luxenbourg, the Holry Roman Emperor.

Duke of Pavia: Galeazzo Maria Sforza, eventually duke of Milan.
Duke of RiminiL Pandolfo Malatesta

Council of Florence 1439
Pope Pius II.

January 5 notes

2009-01-07T06:36:00.001-08:00

Monday January 5, 2009,

Palazzo Vecchio:
First erected over the Platea Ubertorum, aka Uberti’s square (created in 1268), in 1298. It incorporates the Foraboschi tower. It was probably designed by Arnolfo di Cambio. Loggia dei lanzi built in 1374. In front of the Loggia dei Lanzi the Perseo by Benvenuto Cellini (neoplatonism: intellect slays the senses). cast in 545-54

Cathedral: first started in 1296, completed in mid 15th century. In 1334 Giotto begun the bell tower of the Cathedral. Dome built by Brunelleschi 1420-1446.

Inside Cathedral: Fresco of John Hawkwood by Paolo Uccello 1435. Second fresco of Niccolo da Tolentino executed by of Andrea del Castagno.

Baptistry: possibly built over a roman civic structure of the V century ad. It is a XI century romanic structure. Andrea Pisano cast the first doors inspired by cappella Peruzzi of Giotto in 1330 for the south side. Ghiberti cast the east doors in 1401 – 1424, these were moved to the north side, when he was commissioned the second set of doors, 1435-52, which are now on the east side. They are also known as the gates of paradise.

Orsanmichele built as as public loggia by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1290. Rebuilt as market in 1337-57 to be then closed as church.

St. Lorenzo: The Old Sacristy by Brunelleschi. 1418 – 28

St. Croce, possibly built by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1295. Inside: Cappella Peruzzi by Giotto with stories of the life of John the Baptist, 1318. Cappella Bardi by Giotto with stories of the life of St, Francis, 1325.

The trip out

2009-01-06T14:36:00.000-08:00

January 3-4

This is a how the adventure began for Professor Chimenti, his family, and the nine students traveling with him.
Everyone met at LAX at around 7 am for our 9 am flight. It was revealed at this point by one student that she was petrified to fly. She had many tears of panic prior to takeoff but the five-hour flight was uneventful except for several bits of choppy air about midway across the US, but arrived in Philadelphia safely.
The eight-hour flight from Philadelphia to Rome was crowded and the coach seating on the Airbus was uncomfortable, making sleeping difficult. However the sunrise over the snow covered French Alps was a treat. The temperature in Rome was 35 degrees with sun and our entire luggage arrived safely, it was 9 am local time. To our bodies it was 11:35 pm and we had been traveling for 17 hours. It was then that a different student revealed she suffered from chronic vomiting and was feeling sick.
We now needed to get tickets from the Rome Airport to the main terminal in Rome. This was accomplished with little incident and we arrived safely at the main terminal needing to get other tickets for the Eurostar train bound for Florence where our hotel and beds were waiting. So dragging our luggage from a remote spur we eventually found the correct place to buy tickets. We then went looking for our platform to catch our train. The electronic signs telling which platform had not been updated as we had an hour to wait. We instead read the giant official printed poster that said it was platform one. This was our first big mistake. The giant official printed posters are incorrect, something every Italian knows. So we waited at the wrong platform for almost an hour before we decided to double-check our platform with the electronic sign, which said platform 10. This is when the “fun” really began. We had around 10 minutes to get from platform one to ten. In order to get from one to the other you must go downstairs (literally) there was no elevator or escalator, and up stairs to get to the next platform. So imagine hurrying with your carryon and a suitcase ranging from 35 to 60+ pounds up and down stairs. Wheels fell off, bags overturned, and stress levels rose. See picture. All thirteen of us made it on to the train in the nick-of-time but we were in the wrong coach and as the train was leaving we had no time to pick which car to get on. We boarded the one directly in front of us. We then had to try and stow our entire luggage as the train was pulling out of the station and beginning to accelerate up to speed. The train is swaying, baggage is shifting, people are moving between cars right where we are trying to “hang on” and create a “space” for ourselves.
Several of the group found seats, some even making it to the coach where we had seats. Others had to stay with the bags and make sure they were not stolen or damaged. The train ticket checker was pleasant and understanding of our situation; another member of the train personnel was obviously irritated by our entire luggage and us. The ride from Rome to Florence takes over an hour and a half.
We arrive in Florence and as the train comes to a stop we 13 are trying to remove our entire luggage with the rest of those disembarking, meanwhile more people are pushing their way onto the train with their belongings. Mass confusion and disorganization reigned, miraculously we all got our luggage and off before the train left the station again. We then made our way to the white taxis for rides to the hotel. The cab ride was brief, as was the distance the cab driver kept between him and other vehicles, objects, and pedestrians. Between 3 and 4 pm we arrive at our hotel exhausted, the time is not precise, as we have now been traveling over 24 hours. The sign says that the hotel lobby/check-in are on the floor above, we are confounded by the very narrow elevator that doesn’t seem to work, there are stairs (argh) but upon mounting them an alarm goes off…
… everything was sorted out at the worlds most unassuming hotel entrance, we finally drag our belongings and ourselves into our rooms. It is time for some rest, food, rest, and bed.

Everyone is here

2009-01-04T13:20:00.000-08:00

Well, finally everyone has arrived in Florence. I have already heard some really funny adventures... I will leave Eric to tell his story, but I am really happy to see everyone here and look forward to our week in florence. Tomorrow we will have a busy day. Since on January sixth a number of monuments, that were supposed to be open, will actually be closed, we are going to try and visit them tomorrow.

We will start with an urban study of florence and then proceed to St. Lorenzo, and St. Croce. In the afternoon we will trace the steps of Masaccio and go to Cappella Brancacci and to St. Maria Novella to see the birth of renaissance perspective in paiting.

Our students are real troopers! particularly room 19, since their heater is broken. Good thing that the owner will send someone to fix it tomorrow am, meanwhile extra blankets and good food will hopefully do the trick; though John says that he can always lend them the furry hat he bought himself today.

Monday Meeting January 5th

2009-01-03T05:46:00.000-08:00

Welcome all to Florence! Please be in the breakfast room of our hotel on Monday January 5th at 8 am. You will receive the "whisperer" (i.e. earphones) that you will use for the rest of the trip as well as the schedule for the day and the remainder of the week.

15th and 16th century timeline

2008-12-31T10:12:00.001-08:00

This is a specific timeline showing and highlighting where we are going and some of what we will be seeing. The course looks at the relationship between the political, religious, and artistic. It is not meant to, nor can it, show everything from this time period of great inventions, advancements, and corruptions.

US to Italy forecast...

2008-12-30T15:23:00.000-08:00

According to weather.com we should have crisp but clear sailing.

Where in Italy?

2008-12-25T21:29:00.000-08:00

For those who like maps, and who doesn't, here is a visual of where we will be. Once we arrive, pictures should follow daily, if the internet in Italy is cooperative.

Time difference to Italy

2008-12-24T09:53:00.000-08:00

For those who are wondering:

Italy is 6 hours ahead of the east coast of the United States.

Italy is 9 hours ahead of California/Pacific Standard Time.

The Itinerary and Contact Information

2008-12-22T09:58:00.000-08:00

Professor Chimenti:

American Cell: 714-293-6009

Italian Cell: (dial 011 first if calling from US) +37-259-716-680 (Jan. 4 – Jan. 25, 2009)

Dr. Leopardi:

American Cell: 212-380-3299 (until Dec. 28, 2008)

Italian Cell: (dial 011 first if calling from US) +39-329-069-7690 (Dec. 29 – Jan. 25, 2009)

January 5 – January 10

FLORENCE

Hotel: www.hotelpanorama.fi.it/en/

January 11 – January 17

VENICE

Hotel: www.donorione-venezia.it/ing/home.htm

January 18 – January 24

ROME

Hotel: www.hotelvillarosaroma.eu/eng/hotel.html

January 25 – Back to United States

January 26

Project meetings at CU

January 27

Project meetings at CU

January 28 – 29

Continue working on written project and visual diary

January 30

Written Project and Visual Diaries due.

Less than a month away

2008-12-06T19:20:00.000-08:00

We are less than a month away from Florence. These are the books we are reading to prepare us for the culture we will be entering.

We have a Blog

2008-11-25T20:43:00.000-08:00

Welcome. This is the space and place we will host and post before during and after the interterm trip to Italy.